
Sorry for the silence on the blog and Twitter since Colorado—I still need to put up a post on the humongous copper mine all the way back in Utah. But I’ve been busy getting myself hired. Now I’ll be writing 50,000 words a year of long-form narrative journalism, pitching any topic I choose, not to mention pay and benefits and a desk, and possibly free coffee. Yep, I’m a Staff Writer.
The job happens to be in the polar opposite of Portland, Oregon. That’s right: South Florida. Not only am I at the exact opposite corner of the mainland United States, but the culture and society are so harshly different that I feel like I’ve wandered into a different, possibly third-world, country.
First of all, if Portland is urban-planning heaven, this is the deepest layer of hell. Private enterprise and greedy speculation drives virtually every development decision down here, which explains why I won’t be paying any state income tax. And why it can cost nearly $500 to get Florida license plates, or “tags.” The car culture is the most dominant I’ve ever seen: it makes parts of Los Angeles look like a New Urbanist utopia. People drive, end of story, even if they’re just going to the bank across the street. And forget about riding a bike unless you are a teenager or a homeless person.
Part of the reason we drive our air-conditioned cars everywhere here is that the heat is nearly unbearable. For the summer months (like right now), the daily high hovers around 97 degrees with 80 percent humidity. Around midnight it cools off to 85. The only time you’re comfortable outside at this time of year is when you’re caught in a raging thunderstorm. You know that part of Scarface where there’s a montage of the Miami streets radiating slimy heat while a menacing synth pulses in the background? That’s how you feel here every time you walk out the door.
The display of ostentatious wealth is incredible. Mega-yachts and Mercedes-Benzes cruise by dilapidated trailer parks on a routine basis. And because the neighborhoods and cities grew up around highway transportation, there’s no apparent logical gradation of wealth—gated luxury is separated by pockets of what the locals mysteriously call “the pits.” And everybody—like me—is from somewhere else. Many—also like me—are from New Jersey.
Turn on the radio, and you’ll immediately hear ads for scamming doctors and seething personal-injury lawyers. Sit in any Starbucks long enough, and you’ll hear someone being recruited to a fly-by-night “marketing agency.” Drive by your average strip mall and you’ll see “Oriental Massage” and “Pain Management Center” lit up side-by-side in fluorescent lights. Oh yeah, that’s another thing: Broward county is the world’s capital for shadowy Oxycodone dispensaries, much to the ire of sheriffs around the country.
I’ve heard the place described as hell—hot, crowded and scary. Also, full of people who did evil things in a past life. But for that reason and so many others, as far as a reporting career goes, it’s paradise.
The writers at the New Times have been consistently turning out some fantastic reporting. Last week there was Michael J. Mooney’s narrative of the suspicious deaths of two beautiful young girls in a trust-fund playboy’s beachfront apartment. Lisa Rab takes on a drunk-driving polo mogul, and bemoans the sorry state of our daily competitors. I first got interested in the New Times syndicate—and working in South Florida—when I read this incredible story from the Miami paper about a lawless, off-the-grid outlaw community in the C-9 basin and the renegade cop who fights to shut it down. Overall, I’m honored and humbled to be able to work alongside these people, and can’t wait to see what I find.